11/18/2023 0 Comments Download the lab bistro![]() Take the lamb with cigar-smoked gnocchi ($24). is not quite what you get, at least foodwise. Dubrovsky uses it to prep salads and pastry. The far end of the brick-walled room is set up like a 19th-century apothecary, with glass vials and alembic fixtures. The graffiti’d science lab look is courtesy of The Design Agency and local artist Darcy Obokata. He calls what they do “second-generation molecular gastronomy,” which means it’s toned down, and cites classic chefs like Charlie Trotter as inspiration sooner than Ferran Adria. He and “creative partner” Chris Scott have a full molecular arsenal of food smokers, immersion circulators, vacuum cookers and gelling agents. in reality, he comes across as a tranquil Buddhist. “We’re not the kind of restaurant where the food is so abstract that the average person couldn’t understand or appreciate it,” says owner and co-chef Howard Dubrovsky.ĭubrovsky, a 30-year-old ex-Montrealer, is the apparent mad scientist behind L.A.B. How can you not have fun with a menu of upscale pogo sticks, mock calamari and apple tarts with the cheddar baked into them? The results are indisputably delicious, thanks to solid cooking techniques and dialled-down theatrics. restaurant that opened in April with two head chefs collaborating on a menu of vegetarian-friendly science experiments. L.A.B., an acronym for Living And Breathing, is a 28-seat College St. breathes new life into the culinary trend. ![]() ![]() Just when molecular gastronomy seemed as passé as phrenology, L.A.B. ![]()
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